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“I’ve seen things you people wouldn’t believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser Gate. All those moments will be lost in time like tears in rain. [Pause] Time to die.” Roy Batty, Blade Runner

Karcher / Kärcher WD-Series Adapter to 50mm hose / DN 50 tubes

In order to increase the suction power of my Kärcher WD 3.300 M (but should fit all Kärcher vacuum cleaners with standard hose like the WD3) workshop vacuum cleaner, it is possible to increase the hose diameter from the 38mm inside diameter (40 outside diameter) to a whopping 50mm. In particular in connection with the well-known Chinese cyclone dust separators, the suction power increases significantly. But not only with this, even without a cyclone, the efficiency of the Kärcher vacuums can be significantly improved.

I designed the hose adapter as a combination solution. You can either use a 50mm spiral hose or use the adapter with 50mm HT pipes! When using spiral hoses, I recommend additionally securing the hose with a hose clamp. Please note that the hoses that I show in the one photo tend to contract when you turn on the vacuum.

I printed the adapter in PETG from Goedis. PETG is elastic and resistant to oils such as those found in my workshop. Be careful of static electricity and make sure that it is properly discharged! You can pull some earth wire through the hoses to discharge the static charge. This must be laid from the beginning of the hose to the dust container and be earthed.

When printing, please only activate supports from the platform and manually set supports in the locking groove. The internal hollow locking mechanism is otherwise blocked by supports that cannot be removed. (See the sawn part in the last picture.)

At this point I would like to point out the excellent Kärcher WD-Series hose socket to DN 50 adapter from ralondo. The thing is the counterpart to my adapter, it enables, for example, the connection of hoses to HT50 pipes.

Download & more @ thingiverse


I hope the adapter is useful for you. Some of the links are suggestions for parts to replicate the thing and affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you very much.

Auf den richtigen Pin muss man erst mal kommen...

Schnell zusammen getackert: CNC Shield 3.51
Als Controller in kleineren CNC Maschinen / Drucker Projekten wird oftmals ein Arduino mit CNC-Shield, auf dem drei A4988-Schrittmotor-Treiber verbaut sind, verwendet. Das bekommt man im Bundle bei Amazon oder eBay für um die 20€ mehr oder weniger hinterher geworfen.

Das CNC-Shield leitet die Anschlüsse des UNO etwas günstiger auf dei Schrittmotorentreiber usw. um und ist vor allem hinsichtlich GRBL zum Ansteuern der Maschine notwendig und eigentlich wegen der gut dokumentierten Pins selbsterklärend. Zumindest, bis man auf die verwegene Idee kommt, Endschalter zu verbauen und an denen für die Z-Achse scheitert. Nachdem auch der 2. CNC Shield keinerlei Anstalten machte, einen ausgelösten Endschalter an den Arduino weiterzuleiten bin ich auf die Idee gekommen, die Pins zu vermessen. Im Ergebnis habe ich festgestellt, daß kein Signal anliegt. Man findet dann recht schnell ziemlich versteckt in der weiten Welt des Internets den Hinweis, daß die Version 3.0 noch auf der Pin-Belegung von GRBL v0.8 basiert. Heutezutage ist jedoch mindestens die Version 0.9, besser jedoch 1.1 aktuell. Daher muss der Endstop für die Z-Achse auf die Pin-Header mit der Beschriftung „SpnEn“ gesteckt werden! Der CNC Shield ist erst in der Version 3.51 auch Pin-kompatibel zu GRBL 1.1. Bei Amazon oder den üblichen China-Shops bin ich bis auf die auch bei protoneer empfohlenen Fertigbausteine bei elecrow nicht fündig geworden. Man kann die aktuelle Version 3.51 jedoch problemlos via ebay bei protoneer in Neuseeland als Bausatz bestellen oder als Fertigbaustein

Der Preisunterschied ist minimal und lohnt sich kaum, ich habe das Experiment jedoch gewagt: Nach nicht einmal 5 Tagen war die Lieferung aus Neuseeland im Briefkasten, die Platine ist in einer halben Stunde fertig gelötet.

Some of the links are suggestions for parts to replicate the thing and affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you very much.

Spatula 4 Vitamix Blender

I was always annoyed that with the Vitamix Nutrion / Smoothie Maker & Blender, the remains of the mix under the knife are very difficult to get out, especially when the consistency is a little firmer. That's why I scribbled out a quick draft for a spatula.

There is probably no price for the "design", I was more interested in the usefulness.

It fits both large and small containers, I advise printing the spatula in PETG, which is a little bit more food-safe than ABS and can also be put into the dishwasher.

Project page & Download @ thingiverse


Some of the links are suggestions for parts to replicate the thing and affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you very much.

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Last modified on 2020-02-03 13:01

7x7.3 Dragchain ends

Screenshot: FreeCAD
With my small 3D router, the cables of the milling spindle are to be laid in a drag chain. Since I am extremely stingy economical and therefore like to recycle leftovers, I used a leftover piece of a 7×7.3 drag chain. Since the ends of the other part of the drag chain are installed elsewhere, I just scribbled and printed out 2 ends in 3D. Fits.

The parts can be downloaded from Dingsbums.


Some of the links are suggestions for parts to replicate the thing and affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you very much.

Tube and Rod Cutter for ProXXon IBS / E

Sometimes it is practical to use the ProXXon IBS/E to cut thin pipes or rods. And it would be nice if this could also happen at an angle of 90 °.

So I did a remix of the cool tool published by GreaseMonkey88 to cut small diameter rods or tubes using my ProXXon.

Unfortunately, the holder from ClaudioBitschnau probably only fits the Micromot devices from ProXXon with a smaller neck diameter (<20mm). So I redesigned the part from scratch with minor improvements, I also installed the great extensions from mettauk because I think they make sense: Two bench fixing holes to fix the base of this guide to a workbench or other solid surface.

The larger diameter of the ProXXon IBS/E made it necessary to change various other dimensions. So it is possible to use cutting discs up to 38mm. For example, you can also rob the Dremel Speed clic cutting discs. The clamping of the IBS / E is designed for maximum torsional strength, which is why it is only through a slotted hole that is clamped with an M4 x25 cylinder screw and an M4 nut. (Please tighten with feeling, it is still plastic ;-)

A height adjustment with easy adjust turn for M6 hex bolt or nut if using a cap bolt etc. simply Super glue the M6 nut to the bolt and thumb turn (after inserting through the guide)

You will need a small tube or rod with a 8mm diameter to connect the two parts. For a perfect fit you have to drill the hole for the shaft with an 8mm drill, but better with a 7.5mm drill and then with an 8mm reamer. The guide part might need some sanding to fit in the base, I wanted it to fit nicely with little play, just like the role model.

You also need an M6x30mm cylinder head screw and an M6 nut for height adjustment and an M4x12mm cylinder head screw and an M4 nut for clamping the ProXXon tool.

I've also added a modified support-block, for supporting the loose end of the tube/rod to be cut.

More Information and Download. License: CC BY-SA 3.0
Changes:

  • 2020/01/14: Added Insert for small Diameters and / or smaller (diamond) cutting discs Please be careful when sawing: the rest hangs in the air and can tear off uncontrollably!

  • 2020/01/15: I have changed the insert for the tool, it is now easier to remove from the base plate by simply lifting out on the protruding part. Cutting to size is now also possible with (diamond) cutting discs with a minimum diameter of 20mm. My hint is to print this part as shown in the last picture.

Some of the links are suggestions for parts to replicate the thing and affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you very much. 

Mini UNO Card Game Box

Here is a box for the popular card game UNO in the "mini" version. This issue has flown to me in Thailand, unfortunately I've never seen it anywhere else. Meanwhile, the original box is somewhat scratched, so that something new had ago. Because of the unusual format was unfortunately no scaling of existing designs such as (thing: 145436) possible, which is why I then just designed the box from scratch.

Maybe someone can use the box, for easier opening a small "overpressure" opening is built in.

So, here ist is, printed with my AnyCubic i3 MEGA, with Filament from Alicia3DP: RED PLA. This Filament from Spain is very cheap, but can be processed well.

I suggest 15% infill, 0.20mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 220° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 100% Cooling. (I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings).
For the thin walls, I recommend to set Simplify 3D in the advanced options for External and internal Thin Wall Type to "perimeters only". Otherwise, there may be problems with the lettering.

Sources: thing:3785199. Due to recent problems with thingiverse currently downloadable only here: Case Bottom and Case Top.

Some of the links are Affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you.

Who thinks he has to complain because I link to evil Amazon: I am a organized trade unionist and have always advocated trade union organization of the working class, especially at Amazon. There are no "good" or "bad" capitalists. The total shit must be eliminated. We need a society liberated from the exploitation and suppression of man by man.

That being said, you do not mind that I give my ideas and the time I need for free use, right?

Makita RT0700 (Or Katsu and similar Clones) Router to Bosch / Malfell FSN Rail Adapter.

I use a lot of Bosch Professional hand machines in my workshop and have a matching FSN 1100 guide rail. Unfortunately, my beloved Makita RT0700CX2J router does not fit this rail. Buying a Makita rail and a matching adapter is out of the question, why do I have a printer? So I quickly made an adapter, which is suitable for my purposes. Except for a bit of filament you only need an 8mm x 160mm shaft to connect the router to the adapter. Even straight cutouts nothing stands in the way and you have saved a lot of money.

Speaking of money: I would be glad, if the adapter is also useful for you, that you visit with your next purchase perhaps one of the affiliate links here and order over it. For you, the purchased product is not more expensive, but I get a small commission for it.

And please note the license of this tool. No commercial use. Thank you!

BTW: The adapter should also fit with the Katsu routers and their clones. Due to the compatibility of the Bosch and Malfell guide rails, it is also possible that this adapter fits the latter. But that lacks me the experience. If he fits you: Write a comment.

So, here ist is, printed with my AnyCubic i3 MEGA, with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA.

I suggest 20% infill, 0.20mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling. (I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings).


Some of the links are Affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you.
Source: myself @ thingiverse

Combined fan / drag chain holder for NEMA 17 Extruder / X-Carriage Mount AnyCubic i3 MEGA

The AnyCubic i3 MEGA is a good printer, but I did not like the cable management right from the beginning, so I immediately switched to drag chains for the printhead. So I used Michelx parts, because these fit perfectly and work'd well. Since I converted my printer very fast to the Bowden MK3 R3 X-carriage for the Anycubic I3 Mega or Anycubic I3 Mega Prusa i3 X-Carriage Converter, of course, the Schleppkette / drag chain design of Michelx no longer fit.

I worked with this thing from makercan for a few months, which works well too. Since my extruder motor has to do a lot more by expanding it to a Titan Extruder and to avoid any step losses due to overheating, I have designed a combined solution with a 40x10mm cooling fan mount from scratch.

In the course of this I also redesigned the holder for connecting the drag chain to the printhead unit, as I was not satisfied with the stability of the mentioned thing.

The basic concept stands and works stable and reliable with drag chains from HaoBase. In addition, the drag chain can still be secured with a cable tie. The NEMA 17 holder is held by an M4 screw, an existing thread is used.

Possibly also other drag chains may fit. I have specially designed the tolerances so that 10x20mm drag chains links with a maximum radius of 12.5 millimeters and a bore of 4 mm and the inside dimensions of 22.5 (20.0) x10mm may fit.

I recommend Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fans. They differ significantly in the quality of cheap variants, which is also reflected in the manufacturer's warranty of 5 years. By the distances of the mounting holes of 40mm but also every other fan should work.

However, in that case it might be necessary to look at the fixture again: I have installed the flow channels in the fixture to work with Noctuna's vibration dampers. If you plan to bolt your fan with ordinary screws, you should be aware that air can flow through these channels on the outside of the engine!

The construct has been running satisfactorily for a while now, so I'll probably just change some minor details in the future.

So, here ist is, printed with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA.

I suggest 20% infill, 0.20mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling. (As I said before, I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings). I have set the Support pillar resolution to 1mm size in Simplyfy3d. So I have no problems with any artifacts in the intake of the drag chains: they rest - as it should be - with a full "click" and hold. Bomb-proof.

Some of the links are Affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you.

source: thingiverse

Caliper Depth Base / Depth Measuring Bridge for 6" / 150mm Mitutoyo Caliper (and others)

I needed a Depth Measuring Bridge for my Mitutoyo Digimatic Absolute AOS Caliper. (You can read my - german - Review of this Caliper here).
Because I needed it today (when else?), I "desingned" one from scratch. OK. The price was another argument for doing it instead of buying an original Part. :-/

I have also found that the measuring foot can also be used for other calipers, for example from Tesa, Blankenhorn or even these so-called $ 1.50 Things from aliexpress, ebay or Amazon. The caliper must not be wider than 16mm.

So, here ist is, printed with my AnyCubic i3 MEGA, with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA.

I suggest 20% infill, 0.15 mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling. (I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings). Also, I refer to add supports for the recess. See Screenshots.

You'll need a M4x8mm Screw to counter the Caliper in the Measuring Bridge. But do this with feeling and very carefully, because the part could bend and then the measurement accuracy is no longer given. In the worst case, you can also damage the flanks of your calliper!

I suggest also to print the measuring foot upright, that is, the measuring surface printed on the printing bed. This is most likely to give a good surface at the crucial points and a right angle. It should be clear that this part is only as good as your printer is calibrated. For serious purposes, I recommend buying the original.

But for sensitive parts for example, that thing is just right.

I recommend following sets of screws, so you have enough of them for the rest of the Week ;-) : 460 Countersunk Screws and 1080 Cylinder Head Screws.

If you need a left-handed version, just mirror it. But you will know that yourself. ;-)

31.05.:


  • Added Version with Threads on both Sides, so you can use the thing as left- or right handed

  • Added a 10mm higher Version with two more screw holes. So the caliper sits bombproof.


Some of the links are Affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you.

MeanWell RS 150-48 Case One

Just copied my last project from Thingiverse here. It's another quick'n'dirty "designed" simple Cover for the Meanwell RS 150-48 PSU, which works (for me) together with a DPS 5015 Module.

I use Silicon / Rubberfeet 10mm Diameter to avoid the Case from slipping around the Table. Recesses on the undersides are prepared.

The Terminal Binding posts are some cheap ones, for internal wiring I've used AWG 18 Cables.

You also need some Screws:


  • 4pcs. M3x20mm Countersunk Screws to attach the front Plate with the Case. (Threads in are prepared in the Case.)

  • 2pcs. M3x16mm Countersunk Screws to attach the Switch to the Front Plate (Brackets for the nuts are prepared)

  • 5pcs. M3x10mm Cylinder Head Screws to attach all Parts with the Power Supply.

I recommend following sets of screws, so you have enough of them for the rest of the Week ;-) : 460 Countersunk Screws and 1080 Cylinder Head Screws.

Printed with my AnyCubic i3 MEGA, with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA and 3dJake nice ABS red.

  • PLA: 25% Infill, 0.2 mm Height of Layer, 93% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling.

  • niceABS: 15%Infill, 0.2 Height of Layer, 93% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 90° Heatbed and 10% Cooling.