Wissenschaft

The AnyCubic i3 MEGA is a good printer, but I did not like the cable management right from the beginning, so I immediately switched to drag chains for the printhead. So I used Michelx parts, because these fit perfectly and work'd well. Since I converted my printer very fast to the Bowden MK3 R3 X-carriage for the Anycubic I3 Mega or Anycubic I3 Mega Prusa i3 X-Carriage Converter, of course, the Schleppkette / drag chain design of Michelx no longer fit.

I worked with this thing from makercan for a few months, which works well too. Since my extruder motor has to do a lot more by expanding it to a Titan Extruder and to avoid any step losses due to overheating, I have designed a combined solution with a 40x10mm cooling fan mount from scratch.

In the course of this I also redesigned the holder for connecting the drag chain to the printhead unit, as I was not satisfied with the stability of the mentioned thing.

The basic concept stands and works stable and reliable with drag chains from HaoBase. In addition, the drag chain can still be secured with a cable tie. The NEMA 17 holder is held by an M4 screw, an existing thread is used.

Possibly also other drag chains may fit. I have specially designed the tolerances so that 10x20mm drag chains links with a maximum radius of 12.5 millimeters and a bore of 4 mm and the inside dimensions of 22.5 (20.0) x10mm may fit.

I recommend Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fans. They differ significantly in the quality of cheap variants, which is also reflected in the manufacturer's warranty of 5 years. By the distances of the mounting holes of 40mm but also every other fan should work.

However, in that case it might be necessary to look at the fixture again: I have installed the flow channels in the fixture to work with Noctuna's vibration dampers. If you plan to bolt your fan with ordinary screws, you should be aware that air can flow through these channels on the outside of the engine!

The construct has been running satisfactorily for a while now, so I'll probably just change some minor details in the future.

So, here ist is, printed with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA.

I suggest 20% infill, 0.20mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling. (As I said before, I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings). I have set the Support pillar resolution to 1mm size in Simplyfy3d. So I have no problems with any artifacts in the intake of the drag chains: they rest - as it should be - with a full "click" and hold. Bomb-proof.

Some of the links are Affiliate. If you buy something, I get a small commission. The price you pay is the same. Thank you.

source: thingiverse

Heute vor fünf Jahren hat sich Alex das Leben genommen...

I needed a Depth Measuring Bridge for my Mitutoyo Digimatic Absolute AOS Caliper. (You can read my - german - Review of this Caliper here).
Because I needed it today (when else?), I "desingned" one from scratch. OK. The price was another argument for doing it instead of buying an original Part. :-/

I have also found that the measuring foot can also be used for other calipers, for example from Tesa, Blankenhorn or even these so-called $ 1.50 Things from aliexpress, ebay or Amazon. The caliper must not be wider than 16mm.

So, here ist is, printed with my AnyCubic i3 MEGA, with Filament from Goedis: Black PLA.

I suggest 20% infill, 0.15 mm Height of Layer, 1,06% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling. (I use an Titan Extruder and Sunon Fans, you'll try it with your Standard PLA Settings). Also, I refer to add supports for the recess. See Screenshots.

You'll need a M4x8mm Screw to counter the Caliper in the Measuring Bridge. But do this with feeling and very carefully, because the part could bend and then the measurement accuracy is no longer given. In the worst case, you can also damage the flanks of your calliper!

I suggest also to print the measuring foot upright, that is, the measuring surface printed on the printing bed. This is most likely to give a good surface at the crucial points and a right angle. It should be clear that this part is only as good as your printer is calibrated. For serious purposes, I recommend buying the original.

But for sensitive parts for example, that thing is just right.

I recommend following sets of screws, so you have enough of them for the rest of the Week ;-) : 460 Countersunk Screws and 1080 Cylinder Head Screws.

If you need a left-handed version, just mirror it. But you will know that yourself. ;-)

31.05.:

• Added Version with Threads on both Sides, so you can use the thing as left- or right handed


• Added a 10mm higher Version with two more screw holes. So the caliper sits bombproof.

Just copied my last project from Thingiverse here. It's another quick'n'dirty "designed" simple Cover for the Meanwell RS 150-48 PSU, which works (for me) together with a DPS 5015 Module.

I use Silicon / Rubberfeet 10mm Diameter to avoid the Case from slipping around the Table. Recesses on the undersides are prepared.

The Terminal Binding posts are some cheap ones, for internal wiring I've used AWG 18 Cables.

You also need some Screws:

• 4pcs. M3x20mm Countersunk Screws to attach the front Plate with the Case. (Threads in are prepared in the Case.)


• 2pcs. M3x16mm Countersunk Screws to attach the Switch to the Front Plate (Brackets for the nuts are prepared)


• 5pcs. M3x10mm Cylinder Head Screws to attach all Parts with the Power Supply.

• PLA: 25% Infill, 0.2 mm Height of Layer, 93% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 60° Heatbed and 60% Cooling.


• niceABS: 15%Infill, 0.2 Height of Layer, 93% Flow, 215° Nozzle, 90° Heatbed and 10% Cooling.

Seit heute läuft hier die stabile Version Serendipity 2.1.5. Das Update verlief wie immer vollkommen problemlos.

Foto: Make Magazin DE - Eigenes Werk, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 erase_flash

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash -fs 1MB -fm dout 0x0000 nodemcu_integer_0.9.6-dev_20150704.bin